Serving trays typically evoke ideas of luxurious mornings spent with breakfast in bed, as revealed in the first image below. However, their usefulness extends beyond this decadence; they could be way of carrying supplies out for grilling, toting snacks and popcorn for film night, or simply hauling fixings for lunch.
There are plenty of trays available in retail outlets, but if you want one to suit your exact requirements, you will want to build it yourself. This tray measures 24 inches long and 123/4 inches deep, but it is simple to change it with the same construction techniques. It features decorative curved finishes with handle openings that are easier to create than you may think.
Chris Hill
Tools
A jigsaw will do the heavy lifting on this project in producing the curve and also the opening on the deal. A drill with a 1-inch Forstner or spade bit too will be necessary to create the handle opening; these are specialty drill bits that cut perfectly shaped holes bigger than a standard drill bit set can. A handsaw, circular saw or chop-miter saw are needed for cutting parts to span.
You’ll also need a hammer, a utility knife or heavy duty scissors, a measuring tape, a straight edge, a pencil, a paintbrush or rags, and rubber gloves. An 18-inch flexible metal ruler will be beneficial for indicating the curve on the deal, but it isn’t necessary.
Lumber and Supplies
You’ll need just 3 planks with this tray: a 1-by-12-by-2, a 1-by-6-by-2 along with a 1-by3-by-4. Red oak works best for a stained tray; it’s what I used for this particular project. You’ll have parts cut to size at some home improvement stores.
Also make sure you get a bottle of wood glue, a small box of17- by 11/4-inch brads, masking tape and sandpaper. To get a little bit of trim, this project has a strip of veneer on the bottom edge. This is offered in small rolls and can typically be located near the molding in stores.
The tray shown here is stained, so select a stain color of your own choice. An oil-based stain is typically preferred, but in the event that you’d like to prevent fumes and longer drying time, go to get a canning alternative. One that comes in a squeezable tube is offered by Minwax. Ultimately, pick a polyurethane, either oil or water based.
Chris Hill
Make the Handles
Start off with the manages at Figure 1. Cut them to span (123/4 inches) first, then mark the position of the deal openings as shown in Figure 1. The secret is to accurately mark the centre points to the holes at the end. Use a 1-inch Forstner or spade bit to drill these holes, then cut the rest of the openings with a ribbon.
For the top shape, you can either mark it freehand or use a flexible metal ruler as a guide. Mark this one handle and cut the curve with the jigsaw. Use this deal as a template for marking the curve on the next handle, and also cut.
Chris Hill
Make the Tray
Use Figure 2 and Figure 3 as guides for positioning the parts during assembly. Cut the rails and underside to span (221/2 inches). Apply glue to the edges of the underside, line up the ends of the rails with the endings of the bottom and attach the rails to the bottom with 11/4-inch brads. Ensure you don’t hammer any brads closer than 1 inch from the ends of the assembly. Clamping this assembly whilst forcing the brads will make it easier, but do not worry if you do not have any clamps; 18-inch clamps would work.
Apply glue to one end of the rail-bottom assembly, line up a handle with the end and attach it together with 11/4-inch brads. Repeat on the other end. Again, clamping while forcing the brads will make it easier; 36-inch clamps would work.
Veneer, which is used as trim on the bottom edge, can come with an adhesive on the back that allows you to put it in place and then use an iron to activate the adhesive. Other veneers possess a self-adhesive strip with a backing that peels off and allows you to press it in to place. And others can simply be glued on.
Use a utility knife heavy duty scissors to cut pieces of veneer to match the ends and sides of the assembly. It is possible to simply roll it out along the sides and mark where it needs to be cut, as opposed to trying to measure it off the roster. It’s ideal to cut it a little long, then trimming it once you attach it. Begin with the long sides, attach with one of the approaches described above (based upon your veneer type) and trimming to fit. Follow up with all the endings. Sand the corners to smooth out where the bits match.
Chris Hill
Stain and Protect Your Own Tray
Allow the glue to dry and sand all of the wood smooth. Ensure to sand any rough edges on the handle opening specifically. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for applying the stain. Remember that oil-based products need a longer time to dry and has to be applied in a really well-ventilated space. After the stain has dried, use a protective coat of polyurethane.